Recently one of my chinchillas has developed a very annoying habit. bar chewing. We try very hard to make sure our chinchillas are well entertained and have fun chew toys and hay balls to keep them happy, but alas he is bored.

Haze thinks it is a TON of fun to sit on top of his wooden platform and yank on the top of his cage...endlessly. He is not really into being held and it was finally the straw that broke the camels back. After a near sleepless night I decided to break down and buy him the flying saucer wheel. It is our hope that if the wheel is as good as it seems to be, it will keep him entertained and break him of his annoying bar chewing habit. We have tried about everything else including letting him play all night in a large room with the other chinchillas, and giving him fun paper chew toys to shread.

Stay tuned for a full review of the flying saucer chinchilla wheel and wish us luck! If you have feedback on this problem, please let us know as this is the first chinchilla we have had that has ever relentlessly done this. Below is our cute little ball of furry.

Chinchillas have a wide range of sounds they make to communicate with other chinchillas, animals and humans. Though much of the time chinchillas are quiet, there are many sounds that they make to convey different feelings. The sounds they make range from high pitch squeaks, to a gentle purring sound. You will be most likely to hear these noises in the twilight hours when your chinchilla is most active. Below are some explanations of common chinchilla sounds and there interpreted meaning.

Contact Call

This is one of the most common sounds you will hear your chinchilla make. This sounds seems to say "hey anyone out there." It is a soft ongoing series of grunts or throaty sounds that seem to be a chinchilla's way of asking if you are in the room, or asking another chinchilla to give it some attention.

Alarm Call

The alarm call is a call used by chinchillas in the wild to alert the herd of predators or danger. I have heard this sound used when there was a cat next to my chinchilla's cage and they were feeling threatened. The alarm call can be a series of loud cries, or a loud short burst, but it will be pretty clear that something is upsetting your chinchilla and you should probably check it out.

Pain and Fear

A very loud shrill squeak is a chinchilla's typical response to pain and sometimes sudden fear. If your chinchilla is injured or roughly grasped this is likely the sound you will hear. This should be a rare sound to hear from a chinchilla and never a pleasant one.

Warning Clicks

Teeth chattering is the way a chinchilla will warn humans and other chinchillas to back off! It is a series of clicks that will typically be matched with the chinchilla trying to hide itself, back away or flee.

Aggressive Grunt

A chinchilla will grunt when it isn't thrilled with something going on. Some chinchillas will make this grunting sound when you try to pick them up, or when another chinchilla tries to snatch something from their hands. It has been our experience that this sound is more annoyance than a chinchilla being very upset. If teeth chattering starts, that is the best sign to leave your chinchilla alone.

There are a variety of other sounds that chinchillas make including very cute baby chinchilla sounds that tend to be higer pitch squeaks, unique mating sounds and soft cooing sounds when they are being affectionate. http://www.chinchilla-sounds.de/index_en.htm is a great site to hear the sounds described above.

There are 2 options that we have found safe and suitable. A large plastic or smooth metal drum style wheel 12’’ or more in diameter that do not require your chin to arch its back, and does not have dangerous spokes The other choice is the innovative “flying saucer wheel,” the one that seems to have started a trend. This wheel looks great, but at $75 each, it does not seem very economical for someone who owns multiple chinchillas in several cages.

Round Plastic Chinchilla Wheel ~$25 (6 out of 10)

We first tried a plastic wheel that attached to the side of the cage nicely with a bolt. Two of our chinchillas really took to it. It was not very loud and seemed very safe. The cons were that the chin’s fond a way to loosen the bolt and chewed around the plastic points making it loose so every morning I began to find the wheel laying inside their cage face down and dirty. Eventually it would not stay on at all, and we had to toss it. Our wheel may have been slightly defective in retrospect, but even when the wheel is attached it builds up filth very quickly.

Metal Drum Chinchilla Wheel ~ $85 (? out of 10)

This looks pretty cool. Haven’t tried it yet, but it seems like it will attach well and won’t have the chewing issues the similar one we tried in plastic had. Metal is also easier to clean.

Metal Flying Saucer Exercise Wheel ~ $75 (? Out of 10)

The metal flying saucer wheel has gotten a lot of feedback and attention recently. We may have to break down and buy at least one of these to try it out. At this time the only thing we have to offer is the video above of a very happy looking chinchilla running on its wheel.

Plastic Flying Saucer Chinchilla Wheel ~$14 (3 out of 10)

The primary task of chinchilla care is making sure your chin has everything it needs to maintain its physical and mental health.

In order to maintain your chinchilla herd, you will need to know a few things about chin nutrition. Chinchillas are not rabbits, gerbils, ferrets or any other breed that falls under the small pet category. They are chinchillas and should only be fed chinchilla food-- this likely means that you will need to go to a pet store to get food for your chinchilla, not the grocery store. Though many grocery stores carry basic pet foods such as dog food, bird food and often food for bunnies or gerbils, most will not carry food specifically made for a chinchilla. Chinchillas need to eat food made within certain nutritional standards to maintain a healthy weight, health coat, and healthy diet.

Chinchillas are herbivores and pet chinchillas should be fed a diet of chinchilla pellets, hay, water and occasional treats such as nuts and raisins.

Most pet owners are able to purchase chinchilla pellets from a pet store or even a local breeder. Some of the most popular brands that our chinchillas have enjoyed are Kaytee: Forti-Diet Chinchilla Food, Kaytee Timothy Complete:Chinchilla Food, and Oxbow Chinchilla Food. While the actual contents of the pellets may vary from brand to brand, the basic ingredients include alfalfa meal, wheat germ, oats, molasses, soybean oil meal, corn, and added vitamins and minerals.

We always fill our Chinchillas' food bowls when they become low; since chinchillas will only eat until they are full, over-feeding usually is not a problem. We tend to fill the food bowls in the evening, since chins are crepuscular or nocturnal, but some owners suggest feeding first thing in the morning. Overall we have found that it doesn’t really make much of a difference, as long as your chinchilla has food every day she will be happy! Most owners agree that the key is consistency in feeding time to prevent stress—no one likes to wonder when their next meal is going to be.

Chinchilla food pellets can be offered in a small ceramic bowl or a hopper type feeder that attaches to the side of the cage. The advantages of the hopper feeder are that it can't be tipped over and it's easy to fill from the outside of the cage. If you do offer food in a bowl, ceramic bowls are best because they are heavy enough to prevent being tipped over and they can't be chewed like a plastic bowl. Food bowls designed for birds that attach securely to the side of the cage are also a suitable alternative for especially rambunctious chins.

While food pellets may provide most of a chinchilla's nutrition, hay provides the necessary fiber. The hay, either alfalfa or timothy, can be either loose or in small compressed blocks of alfalfa about one inch by one inch by two inches. Chinchillas like both types, so feel free to give either or both, as the blocks will also help them to maintain healthy teeth.

In an emergency, if for some reason chinchilla pellets are not available, rabbit or guinea pig pellets can be substituted for a short time, if your chinchilla will eat them. If you have to substitute make it for as short a time as possible, as it is not good to switch their diet. Chins have very delicate digestive systems, so try to get whichever available substitute that is highest in fiber and lowest in fat.

If you happen to change brands or types of food pellets, keep in mind that chinchillas are creatures of habit. Make the change as gradual as possible, mixing in the new pellets in with the old. Each day add slightly more of the new pellets to the mix over the course of a week or so. Your chinchilla might discard the new pellets at first, until it gets used to eating them and seeing them daily.

6 Tips to Bonding With Your Pet Chinchilla

Chinchillas make great pets, and each one has their own unique personality. If your chinchilla is given lots of love and attention she will want to be petted and played with by her owner. A Tame chinchilla will let you scratch under her chin and the top of her nose like a cat. An exceptionally tame chinchilla will even purr and sit calmly on your shoulder while you walk around, like a parrot. The more you interact with your chin the stronger the bond and trust will become.

Below are some tips that we found to work well in taming and building trust between you and your chinchilla

• Hang Out with them During Play Time. If you sit in the room and watch your chinchilla play and dust, they will eventually come up to you and check you out. Do not pursue your pet - be patient and let them come to you, and allow them to explore your hand and arm. As the chinchillas trust in you increases you can try stroking their back petting their ears.

• Get Eye to Eye. Make sure that you Chinchilla does not feel like they are being attacked by Godzilla hands every time you go to fill their water bottle or food bowl. Chinchillas are very curious, but flee if you use quick motions. This is the way they keep safe in the wild. If you approach their cage slowly and get down to eye level with your Chinchilla before opening the cage door, they will be less anxious and should begin to look forward to you coming to the cage, as it typically means a reward of some kind.

• Chat with your Chin. Chinchillas talk to one another and have various sounds that they use to communicate. Speaking in a calm tone to your chinchilla, and while you are around your chinchilla, will allow them to become more comfortable with human voices.

• Try Music. Ever hear the saying that music calms the savage beast? Well not that your chinchilla is any kind of ferocious beast, but a little soft music or classical music can help to sooth them as well as get them more accustomed to human sounds. I would not necessarily recommend the Sex pistols, as your chinchilla will likely not be a fan of rock. Loud noises tend to frighten chins and leaving rock on all day may make for one nervous or aggressive chinchilla!

• Hold your Chinchilla. Some chinchillas may resist being held at first, and if they really dislike it give them time. Chinchillas live a long time, and there is no reason to rush them. They can be picked up from the base (never the tip) of their tail, but we do not recommend holding them this way, and only on rare occasions when a chinchilla has escaped and we are trying desperately to get her back in the cage will we resort to grabbing their tail. Though it does not case harm to the chinchilla physically, I can not think of any animals that particularly like being grabbed by their tail, and chinchillas do not seem to be an exception to the rule. We hold our chinchillas against our chest so they feel safe and secure, supporting their entire weight and making sure they are not dangling their feet. Also never grab them by the fur. If you do, you will likely end up with a wad of fur in your hand and a pretty unhappy chinchilla. As part of their natural defense, their pulls out when they are feeling threatened. I have heard that some chinchillas will never like being picked up, but working with your Chin and building trust are great ways to get to this step.

• A little bit a sweet goes a long way. Ok so the music and the eye to eye didn't have the results that you anticipated. No healthy chinchilla we have ever met has turned down a raisin treat. Chinchillas love treats and hay, and may be given treats in moderation for good behavior. Much like you would train a dog with treats as a reward for good behavior, you can train your chinchilla. This does not mean that you should expect your chinchilla to roll over and jump through hoops on command (but if it does PLEASE send the video, that would be the cutest thing ever!) but they seem to learn their names pretty well and respond to you a lot faster if you have a tasty treat to offer!

A good chinchilla owner must be cautious when introducing a new chinchilla to the herd, even with seemingly friendly chinchillas. If your chinchilla has been solo for some time, you will want to take precautions against territorial or defensive behavior when the new chin arrives. We recommend using two cages to start, allowing your chinchillas to smell and see each other before you put them in a cage together. Having their cages side by side will allow them to interact without risking any injury. They may “talk” to each other and try to get a good feel for what the other one is all about. However, chinchillas can be surprising aggressive toward one another, even to the point of pulling limbs through cages, so leave some space between the cages at first, and never leave the chins unsupervised during these initial meetings.

If your new Chinchilla seems anxious at first, do not fret. Chinchillas don't like moving to a new location, and may be nervous at first. Keeping them in a separate cage will also help them to become more familiar with their surroundings and less anxious before they meet their new friend. House them separately for at least one night before they meet face to face. Once they get used to another chinchilla in the vicinity, it will be easier to introduce them. Watch the two chinchillas as they interact with one another. A little chasing is normal, and some teeth chattering (a warning behavior that chinchillas use to tell you to back off) is acceptable, but if either becomes overly aggressive remove the chinchillas immediately. If one of them is loosing fur, it would probably be best to go back to step one for awhile. If their first introduction doesn’t go well, don’t panic. It may take time for your Chinchillas to be comfortable with one another.

Here are a few tips that have worked for us:

Try allowing your Chinchillas to play together and take a dust bath together. Having them play in a Chin proof room may be a nice way to break the ice, and give them enough space to keep their distance if they are feeling threatened.

• Use a New Cage

If you put them both into a new cage, they are on equal ground, and neither has “ownership” of the habitat. If it is not time to upgrade to a new or larger cage, try cleaning the cage really well and all of the cage accessories to get rid of as much scent as possible.

Buying a new Chinchilla house may help reduce the territorial behavior as neither chinchillas' sent will be prevalent

Chinchillas are social creatures and live together in herds in the wild. While there are certain pairings that work well together, others can be fatal.

• Having 2 or more females living together is great.
• Having a male and a female live together is great, if you want baby chinchillas and have read up on proper breeding.
• Having a male and 2-3 females’ works well enough, again if you are looking to breed.
• Having two or more males living in the same cage together is great as long as there are no females around.
• Having two male chinchillas living together with any females in the same cage or even in the vicinity should be avoided!

In the wild when a female chinchilla goes into heat, the dominant male, or the female's mate, will chase off other males as far as a mile away from the herd. It is impossible to chase another male nearly far enough away if they are in the same cage together. Your dominant male Chinchilla may harm or even kill another male chinchilla if they are in the same cage as a female in heat. Even if they have been buddies in the past, the scent of a female chinchilla in heat can turn your males into monsters.

Remember that last bit; consider it the 'golden rule' of chinchilla housing. You may think that adorable fluff-ball of cuteness is the friendliest chin on earth, but under the right circumstances even the nicest chins will kill another male. It can't be helped, so structure your herds accordingly.

Since chinchillas are part of the rodent family they will instinctively chew on wood or anything they can get their paws on. It is part of their natural behavior, so it is up to their human friends to keep them from chewing on wires, walls, plastic, or other materials that could be harmful. Though their chewing can be a bit challenging for human friends, it should not be discouraged as chinchillas need to gnaw to keep their teeth healthy and prevent them from growing too long. Rodent's teeth never stop growing so they have to gnaw on things regularly.

There are some instances where chewing is a negative behavior for chinchillas--fur chewing. This behavior is similar to the feather plucking that some pet birds display. Some fur chewing tends to be hereditary, but it can also have environmental influences. If your Chinchilla is distressed, has recently undergone a traumatic move, you have changed the food, she has not had much play time out of the cage, or she is pregnant these are some reasons why your chinchilla may be chewing her fur. Fur chewers will chew their own fur either constantly, or at intervals, re-growing it completely in between. They usually chew the fur off of their hips and sides, and base of the tail about half-way down the length of the hair. It looks very unsightly, but it is usually not harmful to the chinchilla’s physical health. Unfortunately, they will also chew the fur off of other chinchillas and their offspring. If you are thinking of breeding be cautious if your chinchilla displays this behavior, as chewers tend to produce chewers.

Chinchilla chew toys are recommended as a great way to enrich your chinchilla’s environment and keep their teeth healthy. They enjoy wooden small animal chew toys that you can pick up at most pet stores, hanging chew toys, alfalfa blocks, and chinchilla chew toys like lava bites that are made to simulate the chewing materials they would find in their natural habitat in and around the Andes Mountains.

You have decided to become a Chinchilla owner and are excited to bring your cute little chin home, but what about a cage? You will notice that there are few cages specifically designed for Chinchillas, so what to choose?

Cage selection is very important. We recommend choosing a cage that is large enough for your chinchilla to jump around. Chinchillas are very active and choosing the right chinchilla cage will help to ensure a happy and healthy chinchilla. Minimum size for a chinchilla cage is 30"L x 29"W x 18"H (76cm x 74cm x 46cm). The openings between the bars should also be no larger than 1 inch x 2 inches for adult chinchillas and no larger than 1/2 and inch by 1 inch for baby chinchillas.

One word of caution, make sure your chin can't escape from her cage. If you have a baby or juvenile (not fully grown) chinchilla, be especially cautious as they can squeeze right through the bars of many cages! You may want to invest in a "starter cage" like a bird cage with bars that will not allow the baby to excape.

We have found that Ferret Cages (like the one pictured above)make terrific homes for chins. They tend to be taller and have multiple shelves so your chinchilla can run from level to level. Chinchillas enjoy shelves or levels in their cages and tend to spend much of their time at the highest spot available. Pick a cage with metal levels, rather than plastic, as Chinchillas are chewers and eating plastic isn't good for anyone.

Though chins love to get out and exercise, it is highly recommended to monitor your chinchillas play time while out of the cage. Chinchillas like to nibble and taste anything around (including wires and walls) and can squeeze themselves into some pretty surprising places. Also if there are other pets in the house (like a dog or cat) your Chinchilla can easily be looked at as prey, even if they have played well together under supervision.

Other options for Chinchilla cages are bunny or rabbit cages, or even bird cages. As mentioned above, a bird cage can make a great first home for baby chinchillas, as the bars tend to be closer together and the amount of space isn't overwhelming for your new chin. You can also add levels to bird cages as they tend to be taller than a bunny cage.

Once you have picked the cage make sure to buy a chinchilla house, or at least put a shoe box in with a side cut out. Chinchillas like to feel secure while they sleep or rest, and having a place to call their home keeps them calm and comfortable. A chinchilla house is a wooden box that will give your chin the privacy she needs.

When choosing a chinchilla the first question people usually ask is whether to choose a male or female chinchilla. Though chinchillas, like dogs or cats, have their own personalities there are differences between the sexes.

Other than the obvious reproductive differences, the main difference is the way they will defend themselves. Both male and female chinchillas will try to run away and bark if they don’t want to be held. If they are feeling particularly agitated they may give you a warming nip...but around this point the females, when feeling especially threatened, will stand on their back legs and spray you with urine. Also BEWARE they have annoyingly good aim from as far back as 6-8 feet. This nasty little habit is also used to separate fighting offspring in extreme battle royal situations.

When this first happened to me I was pretty angry, but it doesn’t help to yell at or scold your chinchilla. They are not like dogs, and will not learn from their mistake, but will likely become even more frightened by you if you display aggressive behavior. Also at this point if the running away, barking, nipping, and finally spraying (if you have a female chinchilla) were not enough for you to back off, beware that biting is the LAST resort for both sexes of chinchilla. Not the nibbling kind of taste whether you are a raisin treat, but the painful blood drawing kind of bite that will likely leave you with a nasty wound. But, not to worry, this rarely happens. The only time it has ever happened to me was at a pet store with a very unhappy female chin that was never tamed.

Chinchillas also have different prices depending on their sex, color and where you buy them. The price of a standard grey male chinchilla from a breeder ranges from around $65-$90. The same chinchilla from a pet store would likely be $90-$125. Female chinchillas tend to be a bit more pricey and difficult to get a hold of. Many breeders will hold on to their females and sell the males. From a breeder a standard female chinchilla ranges from $80-$150 and from a pet store they will likely range between $100-$175.

Whether you are buying a male or female chinchilla remeber that every chinchilla is different. Some are hyper, some are laid back, some are more cautious, some are more aggressive or territorial. It is important to learn and recognize the type of personality your chinchilla has and respect that in establishing a relationship.

We currently own a total of 7 chinchillas, 4 female and 3 male. Our boys tend to be a little less skittish than the girls, but there are always exceptions to the rule.